Kheri (Peshawari chappal)

The Kheri (Punjabi: کھیڑی) (nicknamed as Peshawari chappal) is a traditional Punjabi footwear originating from the Salt Range and surrounding regions of Punjab, Pakistan, The shoes are worn by men casually or formally, usually with the shalwar kameez. Because of their comfort, they are worn in place of sandals or slippers in Pakistan.

It is a semi-closed shoe which consists of two wide straps crossed and joined with the sole,^[1] plus a heel strap with a buckle to tie according to the foot size and level of comfort. It is traditionally made with pure leather with its sole often made from a truck tyre. It is available in many traditional designs^[2] and colours with various variations such as gold and silver embroidery, which give the shoe a more elegant look. Kheris (Peshawari chappals) have become increasingly popular^[3] in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa region of Pakistan

They are made from soft leather which is sewn onto the rubber tire sole. The materials are cheap, easily available and very hard-wearing. Intricate designs are added to the leather upper before the shoe is put into a mold which stretches it to size.^[4]

The origins of the Kheri are rooted in the artisan traditions of the north Punjab and the broader Indus plains. Designed as a utilitarian sandal for the agricultural communities of the Punjab,^[5] the footwear was specifically engineered to withstand the rocky terrain of extreme heat of northern Pakistan. Historical records confirm that the Kheri was the indigenous footwear of Northern Punjab, originating from the Salt Range and Pothohar Plateau. British colonial gazetteers document its widespread use across the districts of Attock ^[6], Jhelum (including Chakwal)^[7], Shahpur^[8] (covering Sargodha and Khushab), and Rawalpindi^[9].

Unlike the soft leather Jutti worn in the plains of Punjab, the Kheri was developed in these hill tracts to withstand rugged topography. The connection is so specific that a limestone ridge in Rawalpindi, the Khairimár, was named "The Sandal Breaker" due to its ability to destroy the Kheri soles of travelers^[9]. This geographic belt remains a major production hub, with cities like Chakwal and Talagang continuing to export traditional hand-stitched Kheris internationally.^[7]

During the early 20th centuries, the design moved along trade routes into the urban centers of the northwest. Following the independence of Pakistan in 1947, In Peshawar, the craft was further refined with softer leathers and more intricate finishes, leading to the emergence of the nickname "Peshawari chappal" and prominent commercial brand among pushtun traders, the sandal transitioned from a regional rural staple to a national symbol of formal attire of Pakistan. While the "Peshawari" label became the dominant urban and international descriptor, the traditional nomenclature of Kheri has been preserved in the Punjab region, maintaining its status as a distinct cultural heritage of the Punjabi-speaking populations.

Linguistic evidence indicates that the Pashtun adoption of similar sandals was influenced by Punjabi designs: Raverty’s 1860 Pashto dictionary^[10] records the terms "Chaplí" and "Kheṛ" as being borrowed from Punjabi, confirming that the style and terminology originated in the Punjab region before spreading westward into Pashtun areas. Visual records further corroborate the historical use of Kheri in northern Punjab, with photographs of Punjabi soldiers from the early 20th century showing hand-stitched Kheris as part of their standard attire.^[11][12]

In March 2014, the Kheri (Peshawari chappal) became the Centre of a global fashion debate when Sir Paul Smith made a similar shoe, which sold for £300.^[13] This prompted complaints on social media that the design appropriated the culture and craft of its original Pakistan makers. Over a thousand petitioners used Change.org to ask the designer and U.K. government for remedy. As a result, the shoe's description on the Paul Smith website was changed to read that it was "inspired by Peshawari Chappal".^{[14][15][16][17]}

A new version of the chappal known as 'Kaptaan Chappal' became very popular after it was gifted to Imran Khan in 2015.^[18] In 2019 the creator of the chappal had to pay a Rs. 50,000 fine for making snakeskin chappals.^[19]

Although traditionally worn by the men of the region, the shoe style has piqued the interest of Pakistani women. After Nooruddin Shinwari presented the pair to Imran Khan, Khan's then wife Reham Khan said she would like a pair for herself.^[20] Many fashion brands in Pakistan, such as Mochari and Chapter 13, have started making kheri for women.^[21]

• List of shoe styles
• Pakistani dress

• Famous Peshawari Chappal. YouTube. ePeshawar. May 5, 2011.
• "Peshawari sandals making an International statement". Daily Bhaskar. November 25, 2010. Archived from the original on January 17, 2013.